Are you a Nomad? By Gaby

At Yogi-nomad, we have been asked many time "Are you Nomads?" or "Do we need to be a nomad to join?" Beyond our travel habits and a life lived around the globe, we had to go back to the basic reason of why we call ourselves nomads.

Tuareg nomad, Sahara, 1986

Early 80's in the Sahara desert. My friend were tuaregs, people who have always been nomads. The only thing they would take when moving was a few goats and their camels. I remember a day when they were moving to another camp, they placed an old worn out  tarpaulin on the sand and everyone threw in their belongings. A couple of recycled food tins, an old plastic water container, a piece of iron bar to stir the fire, some old stuff that in the west would have gone to the dump field. They folded the tarpaulin and hanged it in a tree, they where ready to go.

It was a powerful and decisive moment in my life, these people who had so much to share, an incomparably generous hospitality, who were always joyful and ready to sit for a tea and a chat, were traveling across the desert with nothing more than what they were wearing that day. It was in stark contrast with the world I came from where summer traveller disappear behind the mountain size of their backpacks. Our luggages have become so heavy that almost all of them have wheels nowadays.

It was clear to me that it was fear that was making us travel with so much stuff. My tuareg friend were free. Free from fears. I then understood that being a nomad is an ideal: It is the ultimate expression of your trust that the universe will provide what is needed when it is needed. It is the full acceptation of “what is”, without useless resistance. It is moving with the flow of the Universe like my nomads friends were moving with seasons. It is the recognition of our belonging, total dependence and our need for union and harmony with the environment, both human and natural.

Ascetic and Nomad on the ghats, Varanasi, India, 2011

A few year later in India started my yogic journey. Yoga has long been associated with asceticism, a form of anti-materialism that reminded me of my desert friends. In between, 25 years have passed and consumerism and capitalism have spread to most of the world. All our major  challenges like climate change, corruption, overpopulation etc. find their roots in the choice we have made to consume and capitalize.

We have disrupted the balance. You need 2000 Cal to live a day but a 10 hours jet-flight will burn 1.250.000.000 Cal, each passenger's share being the energetic equivalent to 4 year of food*... Capitalism can be easily summarized: invest little and expect large returns. Consumerism is similarly simple: buy, throw away and buy again. The first feeding the second and vice-versa.

(*Travel responsibly and offset your carbon emission )

This is the exact opposite of being a nomad, this is also the opposite of the yogic life ideal: take from the environment as little as possible, give and share as much as you can and do not worry for the return. My desert friend had taught me my first yoga lesson. This lesson was later expressed by the sanskrit term "aparigraha" (non-accumulating) the fifth of the yama, the ethics rules of self control. 

Aparigraha requires to have the capacity to discriminate (viveka) between what we need and what we want. Consumerism is making its best to fog your vision and make you believe your wants are in fact your needs. Capitalism fuel your fears and want to convince you that "material surplus" will keep trouble away. Being a nomad like being a yogi, signifies your non-attachment to the material world and its cohort of illusions, it is an anti-consumerist, anti-capitalist behavior.

There is a clear battle going on out-there between to world of the yogis and the consumerist world: a watered down version of Yoga is being turned into a consumer good. Expensive yoga mat and clothes, expensive training and classes, yoga "registered", "branded" and "copyrighted" styles. Check Google trends, Bikram Yoga, Hot Yoga, Ashtanga yoga, Anusara Yoga are leading the race. This neo-yoga is being turned into a multi million dollar business. The business world is trying to convince you that you need that next training, you must meet that famous teacher, you must go to that yoga conference etc. Videos on UTube, front page of Yoga Journal reproduce the perfect image of this new yoga, just like Vogue or Cosmopolitan fashioned our current world, and well trained consuming crowds follow the trend, a trend known as spiritual materialism. A vision of yoga we do not share. 

Beyond these political choices, I remember clearly my friends stoping five times a day and humbly prostrating, forehead in the sand, before the creator. They were muslims of course but they shared many values with the yogis I met later. Further than the material choices there is a deeper link between my early and later teachers: the recognition of the godly intrinsic value in each human, the spark of the divine burning in every heart. This is the treasure they bow to, what they really pay respect to as many time of day as possible.

Namaste: the divine in me bow to the divine in you.

Long pilgrimage, the wonderful story of the Sivapuri Baba. By Gaby

Before I introduce the Sivapuri Baba to those who do not yet know him, I will let his words speak for him:

The Baba at 121 years!

"God has sent Wisdom with you. Wisdom is your friend, your mother. Wisdom plays with Desire and by their unlawful contact they gave birth to Mind. This Mind marries a girl named Chapalata (restlessness) and by this he got the five senses. This Mind has got another wife too, whose name is Hope (expectations) and by this second wife he got two sons namely Anger and Greed. Thus a family is set up and they make a home to live in this body. This unlawful playing of Wisdom and Desire is Avidya (ignorance). And in course of time, as Mind experiences fears and anxieties through the five senses, he becomes much distracted or disturbed, and then turns back to his mother Wisdom and cries for help. Wisdom then comes and consult YOU, meaning Soul, who then tells her you should renounce your family and to remain in communion with YOU or Soul. This communion with Soul, is what we call Realization or Bodha"

From Budhanilkantha, Katmandu, one can walk to Shivapuri easily. At the top you can find the place where the Sivaprui Baba had his hut. The place is loaded with strong vibes, No wonder one would like to settle here for Sadhana. You can also visit his Samadhi in a small forest behind the airport and the golf-course a place called Dhruvasthali. Nothing really special here, just a profound calm and silence, something that quickly invades your meditation.

Born in 1826 in Kerala, he completed his education under his grand father and Guru tutelage. At the age of 18 he becomes Samnyasin and followed his grand father in the forest. After the death of his grandfather, he took the final vows and became Govindananda Bharati, only to return to the forest in complete solitude for the next 20 years. But he had made a promise to his gran father to accomplish a pilgrimage around the world after having reached Rtambhara Prajna or Absolute Realization of God. The pilgrimage was to last another 50 or so years traveling the world, mostly on foot, meeting Queen Victoria, Theodore Roosevelt and many other world leaders. He ended the pilgrimage by finally settling in Nepal, near Kathmandu on the Sivapuri peak, at the age of 100 year where he started to be known as the Sivapuri Baba. The author wrote the book after several interview with the Baba when he was far past 100 years. He died at the age of 137. His teaching are amazingly simple, it was the teaching of "Right Life" or Swadharma that the Baba emphasized most.

Baba-ji tree trunk hut, the large tree has now fallen

Nowadays, when modern self-titled-yogi flock on the beaches of Goa for a new age version of Yoga, you can still find in the Himalayan forest some traditional yogi (they don't call themselves yogi...). In the last month, I was lucky enough to meet "Baba-ji" (the terms just mean father but is used in respect) who has been in the forest for over 18 years, the first 5 living in a tree trunk, Baba-ji is 53, from Haryana (India) tall and really handsome, long haired and long bearded, we exchanged a few lines (in English, yes) then tea and I was invited for lunch. During our discussion we talk about self-inquiry and the nature of the human soul.


More recently I met another amazing soul in the person of a Swami who has lived in his Sivapuri forest hut for 22 years before starting building an ashram on the more accessible slope of Budhanilkantha. Swami-ji is 88 and has long white dreadlocks, his eyes are sparkling, his English his impeccable but he also speaks Bengali (he is from Bengal) Hindi, Nepali, Sanskrit, he is a musician, writer, philosopher, painter and let's stop here as I can already hear you ask, "But how do you learn all this staying alone in a forest?".

Both these saint men exude vitality, happiness, wit and by no means show their age as they are so active and fit. Many modern yogis under the comfortable excuse of following a "tantric" or an "integral" route are often critic of the renouncers. But meet Baba-ji or Swami-ji and you will start asking yourself who has renounced what? Materialism is the renouncement of Life they would probably tell you as the Hindu proverb goes "They who Live have all things, they who withhold have nothing".

Don't look for the truth in Goa or to Rishikesh, the self declared "Capital of Yoga", serious seekers come to the Himalayas and get the book:

"Long Pilgrimage, The Life and Teaching of Sri Govindanda Bharati known as the Shivapuri Baba" from John G. Bennett, ISBN 99946-956-7-3, really worth reading...

Samudra Manthan: The churning of the Milk Ocean. By Gaby

(a modern interpretation)

Dear yogis, you have probably heard the story of the churning of the milk ocean, one of the most famous story of the Puranas. If not let me recall here a summary:

The Devas (demi-god) made an alliance with the Asuras (demon) to jointly churn the Milk Ocean in search for Amritam, the nectar of immortality. They used mount Mandarachala as a churning rod and Vasuki, the king of serpent as the churning rope. But together with Amrita also emerged Halahala a poison so toxic that it could destroy all creation. Shiva was called and, out of compassion, kept the poison in his throat to protect the world form destruction (in the process Shiva’s throat turned blue hence one of his many name: Neela-Kantha, the blue throated God). When the heavenly nectar of immortality emerged, fierce battles ensued between Devas and Asuras for its possession.

I always loved this story, it had an incomprehensible appeal, something more real than its mythological exoticism. I could not stop to compare this ancient myth to a more recent story. Here is another summary:

Homo Sapiens have been digging the earth and the ocean floor to extract pockets of Sun (coal, oil, gas...). Two liters of oil provide energy equivalent to the work of a single bare-handed-man for a year. Today humans consume in a year the energy from oil alone, the equivalent of 400 years of their bare handed work. For example, we can now travel around the globe in a day, allowing us to live in a single lifetime what may have taken hundred of life time before the age of oil.

As a specie, this energy has allowed us to grow from a 2.5 billions in the 50’s (when oil digging really started to get serious) to 7 billions by the end of 2011 (almost 300%!). In a single year we extract from the earth energy captured during millions of years by millions of plants and this more than a hundred million years ago. During this recent period our life expectancy has doubled.

Doing in a life time what could have only been done in a thousand lifetime may not be “immortality” but it comes very close. I would dare to say that oil is our modern “Amrita”.

Further parallel with the myth: since the industrial exploitation of oil, there is hardly a conflict in the world which does not find its source in the dispute for its control. The demi-gods and the asuras are still fighting today.

So tell me where is Halahala?

A confluent of the Bishnumati Khola, Buddhanilkantha, Nepal

 All the toxic products derived from the oil industry, all the plastic bags polluting our rivers, our oceans, all the toxic chemical and pesticides killing animal life at a rate 1000 time the natural rate, the air pollution and acid rains destroying forests. All the carbon that we are returning to the atmosphere and that was once absorbed by the plants to make life on earth possible. Everywhere we can see destruction due to a model imposed by our dependance on oil.

Shall I go further? I think the Halahala of our modern time is for all to see.

In Kathmandu, Halahala is so obviously present that people wear mask for air pollution. In a city of around 1 million inhabitant still surrounded by a lot of nature, it is unusual. Kathmandu won the sad honor of the most polluted city in Asia in 2006, with 6 time more air pollution then the maximum healthy international standard. For the water, the picture above speaks for itself and Nepali specialist Govind P.S. Ghimire calls this a "major crisis" in his 1985 environmentalist report. Any one living in Kathmandu will tell you that it has only gone worse since. But other burdens are also very obvious, traffic has become hell and crossing the city at rush hour is a true challenge for such a small city.

Halahala is everywhere in Kathmandu, catching the city at the throat and asphyxiating it. What was once an exquisite urban mandala, built to honor the Divine Absolute and to respect cosmic harmony, is falling into the darkest pit of the Kali Yuga (The age of loss) in total disconnection with the environmental awareness that should sustain the city.

Back to our mythological story: Kathmandu protector God is Bhairav, a wrathfull form of Shiva. But the benevolent Lord Shiva must be busy somewhere else these days, and it seems we are missing the compassionate yogi who is ready to protect the world from destruction.

May be we need to do more penance and meditation to call him back to this place he once loved so much that he was hiding under the form of a deer in its surrounding forest (see previous post). 

For more information on yoga in Nepal: yogi-nomad.org

Kathmandu, Nepal

January 1, 2012

Sadhana Bhumi, Nepal the other home of Yoga. By Gaby

It does not come naturally to associate Yoga and Nepal. The first thing that comes to your mind is Trekking, not Yoga. It is funny that just the opposite applies to India, you would not think Trek but Yoga. The fact is that there are wonderful mountains to trek in India and amazing yogis associated with Nepal. So why is this almost natural segregation?

When we refer to yoga, we are talking about a tradition of several thousands of year and Nepal or India as political boundaries are from the 18^th century only, and obviously the Vedic Rishis and sages of the Upanishad who where so eager to transcend the limitation of the mind had other things to do than bother about political boundaries!

When we say yoga is India’s contribution to the world, this “India”, the historical India is the subcontinent and its geographical extent goes far beyond today’s Indian political boundaries. In fact it includes all the foothills of the Himalaya (much of today’s Nepal) up to the mountains of Afghanistan to the west and to what is today Bangladesh to the east and would even include Sri Lanka to the South.

Nepal, just like India, was shared and ruled by a number of local princes. The unification was done in 1768, under Prithvi Narayan Shah, a Gorkha king, and Nepal was often referred to as the Gorkha Kingdom. Gorkha was a name referring to the 8^th century Hindu warrior saint Goraknath, disciple of Matsyendranath who is said to have brought Hatha Yoga to the world, after having heard it from Shiva himself, when he was spending some time at the bottom of the Ocean with Parvati.

So here are a few reasons to correct this mis-perception:

Nepal today offers a unique blend of Hindu and Buddhist culture, the two main religious influences over Yoga practices. In the Newar culture of the Katmandu Valley, some temples are the place of Hindu festival on certain days and Buddhist pilgrimage on another, completing an interesting and unique fusion. Some of the last genuinely tantric practice alive are also present and represented by the Vajrayana Buddhism tradition since Nepal host a large Tibetan refugee community.

Katmandu valley alone has 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites related to both Hinduism and Buddhism, some of these places are some of the most visited pilgrimages site in the sub-continent and here the tradition is very alive. Together with the hundred of temples, shrines, monastery, stupas, pilgrimage sites, it makes the Katmandu Valley the most amazing “full size” mandala, a unique tribute to the spiritual architecture of its Vedic and tantric past.

Baghwar, one of the powerful place of the Shivapuri National Park

The Himalaya: home of Yogis for thousand of years. Also called “Tapo Bhumi” the land of practice (tapas) and mostly home of the God-heads Bhrama, Vishnu and Shiva (as described in the old Purana “Himavatkhandah” or “chapter on the Himalaya”) the Himalaya is home of many caves, hermitages and most importantly the “ageless body” of all these famous enlightened masters who have escaped to Nirvana and are waiting to inspire you.

The Mahasiddhas and the Nath tradition is at home in Nepal. Matsyendranath and his disciple Goraknath, founder of the Hatha Yoga tradition are also ever present in what was once called the “Gorkha Kingdom”. During spring one of the most amazing festival takes place in Nepal: the huge chariot of “Rato Matsyendranath” is man-pulled across the city of Patan, a festival not be missed!

Of course, last but not least, Nepal is also the birth place of Lord Buddha (Lumbini). There are many more reasons to come to Nepal of course but they 

When people ask us why we are conducting yoga training and retreats in Nepal, these are a few of the reasons we give, but there are many other, somehow insignificant but powerful. For example, my taxi driver phone ring is the Gayatri mantra, when I pay the electricity bill, it is shakti bill, when I go to the ATM it is LAxmi bank (the Goddess of wealth). Here you cant escape it, and evrytime you meet someone, greeting is Namaste "the Divine in me salutes the Divine in you".

Recently I was reading a post on a website: "Come to Goa, India, the motherland of Yoga", I could not stop laughing, in Goa you will find tourist, the true yogis have always delved in the Himalaya!

For more info about Yoga Training in Nepal check yogi-nomad.org

Kathmandu, Nepal

December 24, 2011 

For information about yoga and trekking: http://www.trekkinginnepal.com/

For more info about classes and retreats in Kathmandu http://www.yoganepal.com ; http://pranamaya-yoga.com

Yoga, some like it hot... By Gaby

A early morning experience at Pashupatinath...

This morning, wake up at 4h30, to attend a Ram Dev Yoga Class (a famous saint teaching yoga to large crowds in India) at Pashupatinath, the main burning ground of Kathmandu, with Poonam and Ashok, two upper class Nepalis. We enter the temple area, cross the bridge over the Baghmati River, and walk up the big stairs through lines of sleeping monkeys and freezing beggars sitting around bonfires.

We sit on a large carpet placed outdoor, it is still completely dark and by 6 am, the class commences. It is in Nepali and I can only get the Sanskrit names of the practices. There are about 25 persons sitting and waiting for instructions from the "guru" speaking in a mike. Students are of both sexes, of all ages and from all levels of the Nepali society. The sound system makes high sharp noise and there is a guy who does his best to fix it. On our left side, the stone shrines of Pashupati overlook the scene. Some stray dogs are sleeping between the rows of student, on the comfortable carpet that seems to be here just for them. On the wall in front, monkeys are looking for mischief and I am told to keep my bags close by, just in case. It smells of garbage burning and people around wear heavy winter jacket, hats and socks, and for a reason: it is 5°C and it feels like it.

We start with Om and mantras: I am happy to know them and to participate as everyone chant. Then we do a series of warming exercises like jogging on the spot and jumping back and forth between Urdva Mukha Svanasana (upward dog) and squat in order to beat up the cold, followed by some classical Surya Namaskar (sun salutation). We sit again for some pranayama (breathing techniques) and then some floor poses, always with some hand clapping and rubbing at interval to keep some feeling in our fingers numbed by the cold. The classes goes on for 90 minutes, alternating between gentle asanas and pranayamas, nothing that would satisfy the basic rules of a "flowing sequence" as modern yoga standards, but nevertheless a very classical practice. None of the challenging poses we see in the west neither and that was not expected by anyone here. People are in blue jeans or kurtas (local casual dress) and you can see they will probably go straight to work after this.

Shavasana is a challenge; the cold is biting fingers and toes. However, there is deep source of heat that comes from the center of my body, something that creates a bearable balance. I can feel a fire inside, working to keep the body warm, but from where I look, strangely there is no feeling or cold nor hot. After a few more rubbing hands, we finished with Simhasana (the Lion pose) and everyone roars wholeheartedly (not the shy practice I am used to) and then a good minute of laughter yoga. Such a genuine energy is coming out of this group that I can only feel humbled and grateful to be here.

By then the smell has changed to Chai (milk masala tea) and Aloo paratha (potatoe fried pancakes), the day is coming out, however the sun will need another half hour to come, the temperature is now 4°C. The power went off, so no more light nor mike, something everyone is used to here with more than 6 hours of daily power cut. The Pujaris (men in charge of the prayers at the shrines) are ringing bells, chanting and burning incense, the dogs are playing and fighting, the monkey roaming around in search of food. The beggars are sitting wrapped in rags in front of their begging bowls, the painted sadhus prepare to receive the crowds of tourist for the day. The first corpses are burning on the Ghats reminding us to appreciate every moment while we are here. Today we were closer to the Aghori (form of yoga practice on burning grounds). When we walk back over the bridge showing a once mighty Baghmati River, now looking more like a sewage drain, with barely enough water remaining to carry away the ashes of the departed souls, I feel sad for the little respect we pay to our home, mother Earth.

I know Pashupati (a form of Shiva) was here all along, I felt his strong and powerful presence. The legend says that Shiva was hiding in the nearby forest under the form of a deer (Pashu means animal), until worried; the other gods forced him back into his divine form. In the process, Shiva broke one horn and it became the linga worshipped here and one of the holiest places in the whole sub-continent.

Today the cold was our tapas (meaning heat, but also discipline and austerity). I can't help to think about how many times I have heard students complain about the "conditions" of practice, either too hot, too cold, etc. Always trying to fix something outside to feel good inside. I also think about Hot Yoga or Bikram yoga so in fashion these days, were the heat does not come from your practice but from the heated room and also about Tumo yoga a form of Kundalini Yoga practiced in the snow in Tibet. Here there was no performance, no fluorescent yoga mat, no Lulu Lemon clothing, the class was free, everyone was smiling and lighthearted, no one complained. Something was present here that I have never felt in any other classes in.

I think it was just simple and genuine faith, embedded in daily life and not something made up or pretending to be anything else. Some people told me "it is hard sometime but we feel so good after... will you come tomorrow?", I had tears in the eyes...

For info about Yoga Training in Nepal check yogi-nomad.org

Kathmandu, Nepal

December 12, 2011

For more info about classes and retreats in Kathmandu http://www.yoganepal.com ; http://pranamaya-yoga.com